Thursday, February 17, 2005

North Borneo

I spent the Chinese New Year with friends I knew at Liverpool University when we studies Geophysics and Geology. Kath and J have been living in Brunei since March. Kath is a geophysicist working in seismics for Shell. J is a massage therapist, but has not been granted a work permit and is raining for the Iron Man triathlon in The States.

The opulence of Bandar is overwhelming with glorious mosques and the Empire Hotel smothered in gold and wall to wall marble. As the current Sultan is he 29th Sultan of Brunei, there are 29 towers, gold domes, you name it, in the architecture. We left our shoes at the bottom of the marble steps. J calls this black marble with a large crystal structure 'Midland bank-ite'. Kath and I were given a black robe that buttoned down the front covering everything from the neck down to the knees. The octagonal prayer rooms were up a huge stair case, very light and airy with a high domed ceiling and the carpets in rows facing Mecca. Huge green bound volumes of the Qi'raan lined the shelves. When we returned to the great atrium downstairs an usher showed us to a display of photographs of visiting dignitaries, including he Queen, beyond this was a library and we were invited to browse the English Language section including translations of the Qi'raan and introductions to Islam. In all the hotel rooms there was a small arrow on the ceiling pointing in the direction of Mecca. In recent years Muslim laws have been enforced more strictly. You used to be able to have a beer at the ex-pat Boat Club or bring your own alcohol to restaurants, but now this is not permitted, but you can buy alcohol over he boarder in Malaysia, the allocation is two bottles (wine or spirit) or you can buy booze at the Shell shop, but they only have one shipment a year (before Christmas), it is only February and hey have already sold out of white wine.

We drifted round the museum containing the Sultan's corrination coaches and gifts from the presidents and royalty of other nations. Lots of glitzy trinkets, elegant vases, a glittering model of a palace and a couple of dishes that should have stayed in Ikea.

Had a marvelous time visiting Sabah, over the boarder in Malaysia. J and I went on an EcoTour to see the turtles, orang utangs, monkeys and any other wildlife we were lucky enough to spot. As we sat in the boat a yellow racer snake swam across the river, heading for J. It poked its head up out of the water then dived under the boat and swam to shore. On land it reared up against a tree and began to climb up, slowly at first, but it was pretty amazing to watch make its was up the trunk.

When the turtles come ashore to lay their eggs, the rangers take them to protect them in hatcheries. In 7 weeks they hatch and can be released into the sea. This was amazing, especially as we were allowed to hold one of the little wriggles. Surprisingly strong they were smaller than my palm and paddle their legs like mad.
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